Cloak design

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Here are some ideas for making a cloak. Feel free to add new infos, comments, suggestions, etc.



Either a two or four panel job, plus hood. I have templates for this but they curve. Will digitise at some point.


Essentially a semi-circle with wee semi-circle cut out at the nape of the neck plus a somewhat conic hood, though you can cut out edges to reduce the peak, as in on this cowl.


Fergus; "My cloak's outer is actually a single great big rectangle of thick cotton sewed together at one corner, which wor...ks quite well apart from the trailing corners (which I've recently had a go at taking up - possibly a place for more pockets) and the mad hood, which could fit at least three heads..."



No synthetics. They do not mix well with Fire!

On weave; twill fabric has weave with a pattern of diagonal parallel ribs (in contrast with a plain weave) that makes it durable and hang well. Examples of twill fabric include drill, chino, denim, gabardine, tweed and serge.

Drill is a tightly woven, stout and durable cotton fabric with a diagonal twill weave. Heavier weights are often used in work clothing, uniforms and corsets. Pre-fireproofed rolls can be found in Edinburgh Fabrics or ordered online. (todo; other places? links?) what exact weight[s]?])

todo; what else? drill is usually used, but has anyone experience with different fabrics or materials?


Optional if you really don't have the time or it's just for the aesthetic. Not optional sans-heatwave you want to stop moving at night and not freeze your arse off. Something thick and warm is great to sleep under, if it's not wet that is.

For good cosy, wool is best, though expensive. All the warmth of fleece/funfur without being inflammable and bulky.


Also optional, harder to make and only if you have the time and resources. You can have an insulated middle layer with an innerfabric such as brushed cotton or other. Waterproof material has also been used before.

Also; Plastic sheeting? Shower curtain?

From Andrew;


Possibilities include the use of a button or toggle, drawstring, frog or hook-and-eye. todo; more methods?

Milk; "I have a large button for the neck, right at the front top corner of the body material, with the button hole on a three inch long and one and a half inch high strip of fabric, double thickness, half of which is sewed securely to the other side. As the hood is heavy and was slipping off, I attached a large toggle about two inches up and an inch or so back inside the hood section. This helps keep it in most positions when required and makes for more cosy in the cold. I would like to add another button on the front around 20/25cm below the top, and possibly a third below that again, to leave my hands free from pulling the cloak around me, but I'd need to experiment to see how much this would help and how much overlap might be required."

One fastner on shoulder, neared neck, one on the tip of the shoulder, one half way town top of arm?


Pockets with buttons and/or zips? What do you need to carry? How heavy is each item? Would separating them be better? What's the most secure or hidden area of a cloak? Seen; key pocket with string just in case.

Leather trim on trailing edge to avoid soaking up puddles? Waterproofed LED system in pockets or under hatch? Headphones in hood?

Horizontal pockets right at the front, mid way up, to hold cloak cloased with.


  • Fleece as middle layer, maybe brushed cotton as inner, cotton drill for outer layer.
  • Wire inside the hood edge so it can be shaped
  • If worn over bandana, heavy popper bottom on bandana and popper top on cloak hood
  • Half line the hood to reduce drag-down weight
  • Sew a baseball cap inside the hood
  • Drawstring in the hood
  • Extra fabric on the front opening edges so they crossover/close easier